Valentino, in particular, went all in on one of the season’s biggest trends — neon pink — devoting almost its entire collection to it. Huishan Zhang, Molly Goddard and more also gave their seal of approval to a shade that is set to dominate the end of 2022. The Valentino show notes claimed its “pink-out” was “an experimental yet deeply human gesture that enhances individuality, capturing values and feelings” and that the label saw pink “as a manifestation of the unconscious and a liberation from the need for realism.” There’s some good news for those not feeling quite so bold: Caramel is also on-trend for Fall/Winter — at least according to Michael Kors, Gabriela Hearst and others.
While Miu Miu’s miniskirts will still endure after going viral in last year’s Spring/Summer shows, and inspiring others this time round, there was a notable pushback against rising hemlines from several designers. For an elegant look that will likely find many devotees around the region, labels including Louis Vuitton, Sacai (pictured), Rick Owens, Richard Quinn and Saint Laurent pushed their hemlines down to sweep the floor.
HOODS, BUT NOT HOODIES
As COVID-19 restrictions ease, chances are your loungewear will be heading back into the wardrobe. But one element of that loungewear — hoods — proved extremely popular in several high-end labels’ Fall/Winter collections, although they featured on far-more glamorous outfits than your average hoodie. Brands from Gucci, Max Mara and Alberta Ferreti to Erdem, Poster Girl and Halpern (pictured) all showed off elegant outfits topped off with hoods.
The fashion industry continues to reckon with its historical negligence of any social responsibility and will need to do so for decades to come to have any chance of breaking even on the karma front, but labels are at least making a serious effort to raise awareness of issues that need addressing. Chloé’s Gabriela Hearst themed her collection “Rewilding,” describing that as “a progressive approach to conservation that centers on allowing nature to take care of itself.” Balenciaga (pictured), meanwhile, staged its show in a fake snowstorm, referencing the climate crisis, and was also among several labels that paid tribute to Ukraine and its people, including Ralph Lauren and Balmain. Balenciaga’s Georgian designer Demna Gvasalia made clear in a note posted on his show’s seats that he felt a personal connection to the war in Ukraine as a “forever refugee.” “In a time like this, fashion loses its relevance…” he wrote. “Fashion week feels like some kind of absurdity. (But) cancelling this show would mean surrendering to the evil…”
From the intricate embroidery of Jil Sander, vintage bows on show at Schiaparelli and the eye-catching trims of Chopova Lowena, through frills (Christopher Kane) and gloves (especially opera gloves) on display at Dior, Simone Rocha, Halpern and Erdem (pictured) to prominent fringing (Erdem again, Stella McCartney and more), it’s clear that Fall/Winter 2022 fashion will include plenty of accessories and embellishment.
Layering in general was a huge part of numerous labels’ collections at international fashion weeks. And leather was one of the most popular fabrics. So it was no surprise to see many labels (for example, Chloé, Nanushka, and Isabel Marant — as illustrated by Bella Hadid in this picture) combining the two to create what seems guaranteed to be one of this year’s most-popular trends.
SHOULDER THE BURDEN
Oversized tailoring has been a long-term trend, and judging by this year’s Fall/Winter fashion weeks, it’s not going away anytime soon. Valentino, Saint Laurent and Louis Vuitton (pictured) went for the kind of massive blazers favored by Talking Heads singer David Byrne in the Eighties, while Tod’s, Dolce & Gabbana and Off-White also bulked up the shoulders of some of their garments. Louis Vuitton’s show notes explained that the collection was “dedicated to youth, in hopes that it can keep the unresolved poetry of adolescence like a flawless garment — in all its … inspiring idealism …”
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