Fancy a ‘nada colada’? The rise of alcohol-free bars across the US
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Hekate Café and Elixir Lounge has all the trappings of a trendy bar in New York’s East Village. A selection of beers and spirits line the walls, and newcomers and regulars sit chatting, soaking in the witchy vibes — spell books and Tarot readings both available to purchase — and alt-rock music.
But there is one important difference: all the drinks in Hekate are alcohol free.
“This is one of the last spots of old New York where you get the queers, the occultists and the weird leftists like myself plotting, hanging out, sharing stories and shooting the sh*t,” one regular, sitting at the bar, tells The Independent.
Of course, Hekate’s clientele isn’t limited to those three specific demographics, but the welcoming and inclusive nature of such bars, combined with changing modern attitudes towards alcohol consumption mean that the concept is gaining a stronger footing across the US.
According to the Boston Consulting Group (BCG), non-alcoholic alternatives compromise one of the fastest growing subsections of the overall alcoholic drinks market – with the no-or-low-alcoholic beers, wines, and spirits currently valued at above $13 billion.
Gene Almonte has worked at Hekate as a “sober-tender” since its soft launch in 2022 and says they have noticed a steady increase in the popularity of the bar and others like it. They believe the reason is multifaceted.
“I worked during covid and I started to notice the attitude change from people being more receptive to a sober bar to then actually seeking them out,” Gene tells The Independent.
“During the lockdown, being home so much and having access to so much alcohol, I think a lot of people developed really harmful habits.”
After lockdown eased, many people realized they had to reevaulate their relationship with drinking. And it’s the young crowd that is leading the charge.
A recent study conducted by NCSolutions found that the share of Gen-Zers (born between 1997 and 2002) who said they planned to drink less alcohol in 2024 jumped 53 percent year-over-year. Over half, 61 percent, said they planned to cut back on their alcohol consumption, compared to just 40 percent who said they planned to drink less in 2023.
Ellie, 24, a first-time customer at Hekate, says that having the option of having “something akin to a cocktail” also takes the pressure off in social situations. Her friend, Yuna, 26, is from out of town, and doesn’t drink. “It’s nice to have a place where everyone can be included by default,” she tells The Independent. “It opens up more options, and people want more options.”
Sober bars such as Hekate can also provide a space for people who want the experience of a bar, but want or need to avoid alcohol for personal reasons.
Hekate’s manager, Eliott Edge, understands this mentality. Having worked in the hospitality industry since the age of 16 and working behind numerous bars he developed alcoholism and subsequently lost four jobs in five years. Eliott went to rehab in 2022. When he came out he was at a loss, until he found Hekate.
“Not only do I love bar-tending but here I am bar-tending in such a way that it is not poisoning the species,” he tells The Independent.
His favorite NA drink to make is The Draper, which is reminiscent of a classic Old Fashioned. Other sober bars play off the non-alcoholic element, with some listing drinks including the “nada colada” and the “phony negroni”.
“I can make you something that tastes like alcohol but isn’t, or I can make you something that tastes nothing like alcohol,” Eliott says. “Some people can get triggered.”
Parker, 29, who is recently sober for health reasons, is also a first-timer. “For me the appeal is that it feels like a real bar,” he says.
“The idea of being sober made me sad because of the feeling I don’t belong in a place like that any more. So this is interesting to me. Obviously I think it attracts another crowd, but maybe that’s a good thing,” he chuckles.
Parker isn’t wrong. “This is the freaks, nerds, occultists and leftists hanging out, getting into discussion that always stays civil,” the anonymous regular, reiterates to The Independent.
“The lack of alcohol makes it safer but people look out for each other. It’s easier to get to know someone and get to know their vibe when everyone is sober,” she said.
The regular is sitting with a 78-year-old gentleman known to his friends as “Notorious Bob.” Neither is fully sober but Bob says he also loves the community and the “stimulating conversation” to be had.
Sober bars can now be found all over the US, including in Texas, Florida, Colorado and California among other states. Though perhaps not a threat to the their alcoholic counterparts, it is easy to see the allure.
“At Hekate, it’s still a bar atmosphere,” Eliott says. “You get the ritual here and that’s the thing – it’s the ritual without the headache tomorrow morning.”
